London Fashion Week AW 18 Full Recap

March 3, 2018

All photos & edits by: Suzanne Spiegoski

XU ZHI

Known for his deconstructed fabrics and feminine silhouettes, Xuzhi Chen's was born in Shenzhen but is based in London. Chen studied foundation art in London, then fashion in 2010, graduating in 2015. Having done internships with menswear designer Craig Green and J.W. Anderson, he's now part of that booming hub of designers based in Dalston in East London. Also, a semi-finalist last year for the prestigious LVMH Prize and Asia finalist for the International Woolmark Prize proves his wizardry when it comes to fabrics. Chen looked to Jane Morris, wife of the textile designer William Morris and the lover of Dante Gabriel Rossetti, who is one of the most recognised faces in art history for her famous pout, as well as the relationship between artist, muse and now, designer, which he states in the show notes in the relevancy of #TimesUp. The collection is filled with painting references, with the ankle length skirts and coats featuring a waxy finish, which mimics the sheen of oil paintings, while Chen’s yarn-braiding technique has been developed to make the fabric appear to have a brush stroke effect, and the deconstruction effects to the tailoring adds a textural element when paired with wide-leg trousers and pleated skirts. Definitely, a designer to watch out for - Xu Zhi will be a household name in the very near future. By far one of my favorite presentations during London Fashion Week.

AMY THOMSON

Emerging designer Amy Thomson poses the question: What do a princess, baker and a hairdresser look like from a child’s perspective with her playful autumn/winter 2018 collection ‘Chasin’ Dreams’. With the models standing amongst floating clouds, the eight oversized pink outfits really brought the idea of fantasy and dreams - each showcasing the profession as seen by a child, with also the help from the designer’s larger-than-life hand-rendered drawings that produced charming prints, motifs, and illustrations to form the narrative of the collection, ensuring that no two garments are the same. Metallic based textures created a sparkling performance. Feminine silhouettes, with giant bow ties and illustrative frills made for a fun slumber party feel. The use of silks, faux fur, and leathers using a palette of fuchsias, baby pink, hot pink that contrast with the royal blues and lilacs. Illustrations upon metallic fabric are layered and stitched on the faux fur. Thomson also collaborated with headwear designer Katie Hamlett from Sassy Freak featuring a range of tiaras of iconic childhood toys such as Barbie heads and My Little Pony. Commenting on the collection, Thomson said: “Telling a narrative and connecting with an audience is very important to myself as a designer. Chasin’ Dreams is based on real muses, real stories and my own and there is no story truer than the one you are living.”

CLAIRE TAGG

What do you get when you combine glamour with destructed textures? A dramatic yet opulent range. Debuting her collection in London at Fashion Scout's Freemasons Hall, Claire Tagg brought her inspiration from her travels as an air hostess. A graduate of University of Creative Arts, Rochester, Tagg was awarded the New Designers Hainsworth Statement Award, as well as being named the runner-up in the prestigious womenswear award at Graduate Fashion Week. Her AW 18 collection demonstrated Tagg’s signature layered aesthetic using digital printing to create rich textures of ripped paper alongside a cherry blossom print and elaborate embellishments, which were all placed by hand. There were structured jackets and blazer style dresses juxtapositioned with oversized full skirts and ballgowns created from Duchess Satin that really brought out sophistication and elegance. The accessories were also prominent with colorful earrings and fabric belts with plane seatbelt fastenings. Cute.

UNDERAGE STUDIO

I found it extra cool being able to visit the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) during London Fashion Week (LFW), where also the UNDERAGE AW18 present took place. The designer, Ying Shen was born in Beijing China, where she initially studied graphic design, using multimedia techniques from film, to animation and 3D modeling before moving to London to pursue fashion design studies at Central Saint Martins School of Art & Design. The collection transported us to the underground punk movement from the 70s and late 90s. The UNDERAGE AW18 collection titled “Riots of Our Own” comments on the rebellious and social disruption of the era – and what that means for someone of a similar mindset today. A celebration of self-expression, independence, and nonconformity, acknowledges the makers of change from the past and applying it to a personal, modern-day fight for the future. Real eye-catching presentation.

MIMI TRAN DESIGNS

I'm not one to wear gowns, but if I had to (yes, how painful) I'd definitely go with San Francisco-based designer Mimi Tran. Her AW 18 collection consisted of a color palette with uncommonly rendered icy tones of gold, cool blue and dark pink among others. She is known for her artisan hand beading and the use of colors to full effervescent effect, the detailing of cutting-edge dimensional patterns evoked depth and with graceful movement.

EDELINE LEE

I never thought I'd attend a secret Zen garden during my time in London a couple of weeks ago, but I did for Edeline Lee's presentation. Inspiration from holistic practices of the East infused within her collection with technique draping and most especially, my favorite, tassel trimmings that were similar to Ayurvedic robes. It refined a traditional cape coat with subtle sophistication. There were even gong players to immerse guests and a set dotted with serene topiary-style sculptures. Dark floral jacquards were in respects to the Garden of Eden, naturally along with Pilgrim collars, origami pleats, and an overall monastic tone. This collection is very appealing for those looking for a modest option but with a fashion-forward slant. Just lovely.

MALAN BRETON

Self-taught, Taiwanese-born designer, Malan Breton, demonstrated strong and seductive pieces in his AW 18 collection titled, 'Omega.' His unusual colors, textures, and silhouettes pair a playfulness with drama - a consistent love of contrasts like my favorite: Hard leather silhouettes pressed up against soft Taiwanese florals. Plum, navy blue, and bright orange colors stuck out, especially a men's patent leather orange jacket. Think lavish splendor with theatrical fashion. Breton's numerous awards, including the FGI Rising Star Award 2016 and the Taiwan Tourism Award for contributions to Fashion and Media, along with some pretty impressive showbiz credits, including costuming Breaking Bad and MTV’s VMAs, speak for themselves.

steventai

steventai’s AW18 presentation brought the neon streets of Macau to London Fashion Week with a unique digitally augmented experience. Created in collaboration with San Francisco film tech experts ILMxLAB (Lucasfilm’s immersive entertainment division), the presentation carried us into a hyper-real world inspired by the ‘Las Vegas of the East’. Models dressed in softly structured velvet and corduroy pantsuits and flowered dresses with trench coats, and my favorite, the accessories such as clear grocery tote bags and clear umbrellas, elevated the workwear with luxurious detail and lavish material. Among the models was an avatar, generated with real-time CGI and dressed in digitally formed garments as part of the collection. Perhaps this is a new way we will see and shop fashion in the future?

AADNEVIK

Aadnevik is a London based luxury label directed by Hila & Kristian Aadnevik renowned internationally for their characteristic feminine, opulent, alluring designs. Presenting their new Swan Lake inspired collection at London Fashion Week AW18 in an opulent historical setting of a grandiose library at One Whitehall Place, the collection is inspired by the classic story of Odette and Odile, where light and dark contrast each other, like good and evil, and romance and tragedy. A woman can be strong and soft at the same time and makes no difference when it comes to undying love. And you can sense this form of unconditional emotion through the pieces, intricate beadwork with silver metal and pearls, delicate French lace was adorned with black and red hearts, beads, crystals, stars, feathers, and flowers. Sensual yet ethereal. Hair by Moroccan Oil, makeup by Bellápierre Cosmetics, nails by Candy Coat.

PAUL COSTELLOE

Paul Costelloe presented to us, volume and print for this year's AW 18 collection. For his collection, he used quite neutral colors like shades of browns, greens, greys and a pop of colors like the yellows and pinks. A variety of fabrics like tweed looked terrific in a cinched-in jacket over floaty layers of chiffon and also in a flattering A-line dress with a contrasting top with peplum. Striking yellow and blue fabric in the generous oversized formal skirt which stood out from the 60s-look show.

PAULA KNORR

Hollywood glamour can be badass too. A sensually powerful collection, Paula Knorr's AW18 Collection was full of body-hugging lamé and seductive sparkles. With clashing fabrics and dramatic shapes, the looks drastically push the boundaries of evening wear into abstract realms, all the while keeping the looks as glitzy and glamorous as Hollywood’s elite. From emblazoning flares with an abundance of sequins to layering block color on block color fearlessly (hello, to the power of red), to even bringing back sheer materials, the collection was vibrant and unforgiving. And what brought it all together was Jazz singer, Laura Totenhagen, who set feminist poetry to music, using her voice and a loop pedal, made it an exceptionally atmospheric experience.

EUDON CHOI

The catch of the day. St. Ives, Cornwall inspiration // plush fisherman vibes with traditional technique and a touch of rugged romanticism. By far one of my favorite collections of London Fashion Week, Korean-born designer Eudon Choi, translated the relationships between these Cornish artists and their environment to create a collection that pays homage to St Ives as a muse to so many artists and a place of artistic pilgrimage. He celebrates the abstract art and Cornish light as well as paying homage to the brave fishermen who worked the harsh sea and the tin and copper miners who were once such an important part of the Cornish way of ilfe. Since launching his eponymous label in 2009, Eudon has become a regular fixture at London Fashion Week. He has received numerous accolades for his work, most recently support from the British Fashion Council and the Fashion Trust through the Fashion Trust initiative, for the second time. Hair by Stephen Low at Neville for L'Oréal Professional // Makeup by Lucy Bridge for Streeters and the MAC Cosmetics Pro Team // Nails by Jessica Nails.

LOVE & XX'S,

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NYFW AW 18 Full Recap

February 25, 2018

SEVEN ALL AROUND

Where can a city girl find a chic-but-wearable shoe? Look no further - Seven All Around embodies comfort but with an elegant style. Often times there is a lack thereof, whether it's too clunky or not aesthetically-sound, it fails to hit a complete mark. Heesung Choi, the founder of the footwear brand debuted ahead of New York Fashion Week. Her resumé is impressive: After graduating from the Parsons School of Design, Choi spent the first eight years of her career at Rag & Bone (as one of the founding employees), where she worked on both women’s ready-to-wear and footwear collections (including the brand’s early collaboration with Manolo Blahnik). Most recently, she was head of design for Public School. The South Korean-born designer wanted to create shoes for herself that would accommodate long hours of fittings and dinner with friends in New York, working remotely with her mother in Seoul to develop the shoes. From ankle boots to platform oxfords, and even flatform sandals, they are all extremely wearing while simultaneously very presentable. The built-in cork padding and sneakerlike cushioning are definite design details and measurements that will in all likelihood be a major success.

GRETA CONSTANTINE

Set in a three-story apartment, each Greta Constantine model wore thigh-high boots in a variety of reversible, colored sequins paired with skirts, dresses, and trousers that channeled the ultimate Eighties glam. Reversible sequins were the majority of the collection, like a green and blue trouser with a matching, oversized loose blazer. To add a dramatic flair, brocade blazers and sheer blouses had defined, exaggerated shoulders, and large sashes were tied around waists. The collection was bold, but held a nice reminder that fashion can still definitely be fun.

COLOVOS

Colovos is known to be minimal with an arty streak. The show-opening loose-fit trench set an easeful silhouette, one which emphasized to their tailoring: Jacket volumes were lightly gathered in back. Dresses layered over pants, a look that can tend to look over-styled, but here rather a nonchalant can-do quality. Webbed nylon shoulder straps on dresses were definitely stressing on the trend of utility. The Colovoses are jean experts from the early days. They showed their denim head to toe today, and the jeans had a baggy-but-tapered fit that looked current and trendy. Makeup done by Mac Cosmetics: lead by Romy Soleimani. Hair done by Pureology: lead by Ruth Roche. Nails done by Zoya: lead by Alicia Torello and jewelry by Laura Lombardi.

BCBGMAXAZRIA

A fusion between modernism and romanticism, BCBGMAXAZRIA was one of my favorite backstage experiences of NYFW along with the presentation. I really enjoyed their exploration of the contrast of feminity, masculine, hard and soft, playful and strict. But what made it all flow together so beautiful is this effortless manner while doing so. It's what BCBGMAXAZRIA is known for and they did not disappoint when it came to the AW18 collection. A job well done to the creative director, Bernd Kroeber and to the five female artists, including fashion illustrator Blair Breitenstein, that created artwork that was incorporated into the venue. Makeup by Huxley: lead by Jodie Roland. Hair by Cutler Salon/Redken: lead by Emily Heser. Nails by Zoya: lead by Naomi Gonzales.

CONCEPT KOREA

This season, Concept Korea presented two womenswear labels: Lie by Chung Chung Lee, and Greedilous by Younhee Park. Park presented her collection first, which included a collaboration with Beyoncé stylist Ty Young. Park was influenced by beauty in women, particularly on extreme glamour, the Palace of Versailles and the romance of Marie Antoinette’s style. Lee took a more political bent, titling his collection “GLOBAL WARMING; It’s not justICE.” The play on words is meant to bring awareness to global warming—more specifically icebergs. He tells us that fractured icebergs were the point of inspiration for many of the collection’s prints, patterns, and details in addition to colors of the Arctic Northern Lights and blue skies. “They serve as a reminder that this beautiful environment could ultimately disappear,” Lee says. Overall, the exposure of Korean Fashion in the American market is booming. Watch out, guys. You'll be seeing a lot more in the next few years.

NINE WEST 40TH YEAR ANNIVERSARY PARTY

The perfect way to kick off New York Fashion Week? Attend a fabulous party! I was fortunate enough to be invited to Nine West's 40th Year Anniversary party in downtown Manhattan at the VNYL. At the party, Nine West also launched its vintage-inspired capsule collection. Featuring 11 styles, the limited-edition line includes signature silhouettes and trends from the past four decades, including platform heels with a nod to the ’70s, architectural pumps that defined the ’80s and wedges that epitomized the ’90s. I remember my first pair of Nine West shoes from junior high, and they were the black platform heels everyone was wearing :) Good Times.

YUNA YANG

Models sashayed through the halls of the Margo Feiden Gallery in Greenwich Village presenting Yuna Yang’s bespoke womenswear collection. “Love Yourself”, the title of her collection, was embellished across the front of hats, on the backs of jackets and down the sides of sleeves. According to press notes, she “wanted to send a message about the importance of loving yourself. Every woman, regardless of race and status, should be treated fairly and equally”. A resonating message that coincides with the current changing landscape, not just in fashion, but throughout every industry. Inspired by colors, textures, and narratives in fine art, the original work by Al Hirschfeld was a splendid backdrop to the pieces incorporating east and west influences. Represented by a diverse range of models, her collection combined high and low elements visible in her designs and fabric choice. Leather ruffled skirts were paired with lace varsity jackets while silk organza dresses floated over jeans. Sporty, luxurious and an all-around feeling of empowerment.

TIBI

Even though I didn't get to see the Tibi show, I did go backstage with Aveda to learn more about the look for the show. Ultimate cool girl vibes, the collection was inspired by cities, construction, and architecture. Striking a perfectly brilliant balance between fashion and utility, the looks did not disappoint as the ultimate wardrobe for the NYC woman constantly on the go. I adored the unpolished look of the hairstyles, it kept the looks versatile yet clean. Hair by Aveda: lead by Frank Rizzieri. Makeup by Stila Cosmetics. Nails by Jin Soon.

TANYA TAYLOR

Known for her signature hand-painted floral prints, Tanya Taylor's AW 18 had less of that but with that came a greater emphasis on silhouettes, like curvy drapes and asymmetrical slouches. Tanya Taylor’s watercolor fall florals and plaid patterns came together in perfect harmony. More surprising were the pieces that nixed print altogether, like the zeitgeist-y turtleneck dress with rows of hand-stitched chrome sequins. The paillettes got bigger and flashier on a completely backless high-low tank styled over houndstooth trousers. Fans of ’90s and early-aughts style will say it’s evident of the “going out top” revival, but the pants (brown houndstooth with hints of neon pink) were worth a second look too. And the pops of color with yellow, pink and orange sealed with collection with perfection.

BEVZA

Only the second season Bevza has shown in NYFW, it was my first. Ukrainian-origins of the designer was apparent in the collection. Diaphanous silk dresses with ruching at the bust; they came in sweet candy colors like sugar pink, pale blue, and a rich green, a number that was inspired by Eastern European folklore and fairytales, it just sometimes works. As if it was a mixture of upper-class royalty and peasantry, the most spectacular outputs were the most abstract ones: a snow-white dress with linen reliefs and a deep neckline on Alla Kostromicheva, and outfits with complex assignments that repeat the shape of hosiery belts in that gentle pastel range. Specifically, the designer sent out a series of puffy nylon coats printed with animal skins and pieced together in strips to create the illusion of fur. Truly spectacular and with the times! I enjoyed this show immensely, and am hoping to see more of this kind of fluidity in Bevza's later work.

ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

Fall is a terrific collection for Cornejo, full of bright shades such as turquoise and a reddish orange and novel-for-her fabrics such as a wide-wale cord that she cut into a skirt suit (not as traditional as it sounds) and a slinkier evening corduroy that turned up on a jumpsuit and an asymmetrically draped dress (one of my favs). The centerpiece is a tartan that she took the stuffing out of, draping and smocking it to create the easeful shapes she’s known for. This season was all about sustainability, as Cornejo reports that 84 percent of the collection is made locally in New York, which substantially reduces her clothing’s carbon footprint.